The Bible is replete with ironies. An Egyptian prince with a bad stutter went on to become the greatest prophet. A young shepherd struck down a mighty Philistine warrior. The King of Kings was born in a humble manger, lower than most humans. The Samaritan woman, rejected by society because of her questionable past, was chosen by Christ to be one of His first evangelists. And the list goes on.
An irony not documented in the Bible, but evident in subsequent history, is that the very man who doubted Christ’s resurrection went on to travel to faraway lands to preach His word and ultimately laid down his life as a martyr.
Very little is known about who Thomas was or what he did before he was called by Jesus to be an Apostle, in contrast to his counterparts Peter and Matthew whose lives are well-documented. Thomas is better known not for what he did, but for what he went on to do.
After Christ’s ascension, His apostles dispersed in different directions to spread the Gospel. While Peter traveled west, Thomas journeyed east, eventually arriving at the bustling port city of Muziris (Cranganore), an important trading hub of that era, situated in Kerala, southern India.
Muziris had been a melting pot with a history dating back to 3000 BC, when Babylonians, Assyrians, and Egyptians arrived on the Malabar Coast in search of spices. The port city later became a key trade hub between southern India and the Phoenicians, Persians, Egyptians, Greeks, and Romans. Commodities traded included spices, precious stones, pearls, ivory, and silk, with the Romans exchanging gold coins, textiles, and other luxury goods.
It was here that he preached the word of God and established seven churches. They are collectively known as the Ezhara Pallikkal (seven and a half churches).
The churches, split between Catholic and Orthodox denominations, have been referenced in literature across the centuries. The most recent one being the Covenant of Water, the worldwide bestselling novel about a Syrian Christian family in Kerala.
“The lake imperceptibly narrows to a broad river. The boat picks up speed as the current seizes it. At last, in the distance, up on a rise, a massive stone crucifix stands watch over a small church, its arms casting a shadow over the river. This is one of the seven and a half churches founded by Saint Thomas after his arrival. Like every Sunday school child she can rattle off their names: Kodungallur, Paravur, Niranam, Palayoor, Nilackal, Kokkamangalam, Kollam, and the tiny half-church in Thiruvithamcode; but seeing one for the first time leaves her breathless.”
As someone fascinated by Christian history, particularly that of the Eastern Church, I was intrigued by this and decided to embark on a pilgrimage to all seven churches, a journey that would span over a year and hundreds of kilometers.
Palayur
Retracing the footsteps of Thomas the Apostle, I first arrived at Palayur, a small town in Thrissur district of Kerala, India. Unlike him, who arrived by sea, I landed here by air. This is where the Word of God was first preached in India.
Saint Thomas landed here by boat from Muziris. The boat jetty, known as Boatkulam, still stands today as a testament to his historic journey. Accompanying him were Jewish Christians who later settled and intermarried with the locals. Genetic research reveals that many Kerala Christians today possess a significant amount of Levantine DNA.
A replica of the boat stands in the water. It’s commendable that a man traveled almost 5000 kilometers to preach, driven solely by his faith in God.
I stepped into the boat and came across the Mar Thoma Sleeva (Saint Thomas cross). The cross is rich in symbolism, with the steps at its base representing the climb to Golgotha, the lotus flower beneath signifying Christianity's presence in Buddhist India, and the curved edges evoking flowers, fruition, and fertility in Christian life. Above, a dove representing the Holy Spirit hovers over the cross, emphasizing the divine presence.
A giant statue of Saint Thomas towered over the jetty. He held the Scripture in one hand and the spear in another.
He is often depicted holding a spear because he was martyred by being pierced with a spear in Madras.
I then headed to Thaliyakulam, a historic site revered as the baptismal grounds of India’s first Christians. The name translates to ‘Pond of the crucifix’ in the local language, Malayalam.
When the Apostle arrived here in 52 AD, he encountered a group of locals worshiping their sun deity by offering water to the sky. Challenging their beliefs, Thomas declared that their prayers went unheard because they were worshiping the created sun instead of the one true God, the Creator.
In an act of profound faith, he took water from the tank and tossed it upward. Miraculously, the water suspended in mid-air.
Witnessing this, the locals embraced Christianity along with their families. They were baptized on the spot in this pond.
Saint Thomas ordained a priest from each family, laying the foundation for a thriving Christian community who came to be known as Syrian Christians, as they adopted the Syriac liturgy and traditions prevalent at that time. Syriac is a dialect of Middle Aramaic, the very language spoken by Christ.
They are also known as Saint Thomas Christians, as their community’s origins are rooted in his apostolic mission.
The baptism pond was serene, with its crystal-clear waters surrounded by coconut palms, a quintessential feature of Kerala’s lush landscape.
A nearby statue depicted the martyrdom of Saint Thomas, who was pierced with spears and martyred at his namesake hiding place in Madras.
With its origins in 52 AD, the St. Thomas Syro-Malabar Church in Palayur is the oldest among the seven churches founded by Saint Thomas.
While churches elsewhere in India are characterized by Gothic spires from the West, ancient churches in Kerala reflect traditional architecture.
This Door of Faith was erected inside in 2016, under a Papal Decree issued by Pope Francis, in recognition of the church’s profound historical significance.
This sacred site is off-limits to tourists, and a sign requires visitors to enter through the door with prayerful reverence.
Upon entering the altar, the iconostases feature Saint Thomas at the center, a common feature in Kerala churches. He is considered the patron saint of India and is affectionately called Thomasleeha. Such is the devotion that many local Christians are named after him.
The side walls showcased paintings detailing the Apostle’s journey here from the Levant.
A relic of Saint Thomas is enshrined in a case in front of the altar. Notably, his relics are also preserved in the other six churches."
Another case contains soil from the tomb of Saint Thomas at the Santhome Basilica in Madras. After preaching in the Malabar Coast, the Apostle traveled to Madras, where he was martyred. But that’s a story for another day.
The Apostle established India’s first Cross in Palayur, a site now marked by a memorial cross commemorating the original.
A row of stone sculptures within the premises recounts vignettes from the Apostle’s life, including the miraculous taming of a tiger en route to Nilackal and his ultimate martyrdom on St. Thomas Mount in Madras.
The Indian Christian Historical Museum traces the rich two-millennia heritage of the faith in the region, highlighting the little-known fact that Christianity arrived in India before it spread to the Western world. The museum houses numerous artifacts of archaeological and historical significance, including vessels and articles used by Saint Thomas during his stay.
Every year, the church hosts the Palayur Maha Theerthadanam (Great Pilgrimage) during the Lenten season, where thousands of devotees participate and go on a 30-kilometer pilgrimage on foot from the nearby town of Thrissur to Palayur.
Kodungallur
My journey of faith continued with a ferry ride to Kodungallur (Cranganore). Saint Thomas arrived first at the ancient port of Muziris, near present-day Kodungalloor, which was later lost to a devastating flood in 1341 AD that reshaped the coastline.
As I disembarked from the ferry, I found myself at the Marthoma Gate. Mar Thoma means Saint Thomas in Syriac.
The grand arch welcomed me to one of the primary centers of early Christianity in India.
Located on the riverbank, the Marthoma Pontifical Shrine was established by Saint Thomas in 52 AD. Here, he preached the Gospel and laid the foundation to an early Christian community.
Over the millennia, the shrine has been rebuilt multiple times, with the current church being modelled after the iconic St. Peter’s Basilica in the Vatican. According to me, this stands out as the most magnificent of the seven churches.
A white marble sculpture at the entrance poignantly depicts Saint Thomas examining Christ’s wounds to verify the resurrection of the Messiah.
Along with him were statues of the other Apostles, including Peter, Luke, Philip, Paul, and their likes, adorning the church’s exterior.
The church displayed a map tracing the apostolic journey of Saint Thomas in Asia. He chose to travel to Crangaore because of the presence of Jewish colonies in the region, which dates back to ancient times. Speaking of which, Jewish communities continue to thrive in Kerala even today.
A vibrant relief sculpture vividly captures the historic moment of Saint Thomas’ arrival at Cranganore port, flanked by Jewish merchants and surrounded by curious locals.
The sanctuary of the church exuded a tranquil and divine aura. After Saint Thomas’ martyrdom in Madras in 72 AD, his bone relic was taken to Edessa in Turkey and later to Ortona in Italy. In the 1950s, the relic was repatriated and enshrined within the altar of this church.
The bone relic is securely housed in a vault within the altar, only unveiled during Holy Mass. Nevertheless, I approached a kind volunteer and asked if I could catch a glimpse. After learning the purpose of my visit, she graciously accommodated my request and opened the relic for a private viewing.
As the vault slid open, pleasant music filled the air, accompanied by Syriac liturgical chants from the built-in sound system. It was truly a blessed experience to pray before the relic of an Apostle who had lived and walked with Christ.
The church is also home to the Marthoma Digital Show exhibition, which offers a captivating look into the Apostle’s mission. A 35-minute audio-visual presentation vividly narrates the life of St. Thomas, tracing his journey from the Holy Land to India, including his arrival at Cranganore, apostolic mission, martyrdom in Madras, and the eventual return of his relic to Cranganore.
Paravur
After exploring two churches in Thrissur district of Kerala, I headed to Paravur in Ernakulam district.
The Kottakkavu Mar Thoma Syro-Malabar Church was founded by Saint Thomas in 52 AD, the same year he established few of the other churches in the region. This church is revered as an Apostolic Church, owing to the missionary work of the Apostle. Mar Sabor and Mar Proth, two bishops from Persia, arrived in the region in the 9th century. They presided over this church and established ecclesiastical institutions, leaving a lasting legacy. The Syrian Christian community in Kerala venerates them as saints. A Persian cross, engraved by the two bishops, is preserved in the chapel adjacent to this church.
Mar Thoma (Saint Thomas) prominently stood at the center of the altar. The two figures on either side of him were most likely Mar Sabor and Mar Proth.
The wall paintings depicted episodes from the Apostle’s life, including his meeting with the king who ruled at that time, and the water miracle mentioned earlier.
After Apostle Thomas, two of the most revered saints in Kerala are Saint Kuriakose Elias Chavara and Alphonsa. They hold the distinction of being the first Indian-origin saints to be canonized. Icons of the duo can be found in most churches across the region.
Every year, on July 3, the Feast of Saint Thomas is observed across all the seven churches with great fervor. Thousands of pilgrims throng to the church during this time.
Kokkamangalam
Venturing further southward, I reached the Alleppey district, where I visited Kokkamangalam, a little village east of the town of Cherthala.
Apostle Thomas preached the Gospel here for nearly a year, resulting in 1600 locals embracing the faith during his time.
The church he founded in 52 AD is now known as the St. Thomas Syro-Malabar Catholic Church.
It overlooks the picturesque banks of the tranquil Vembanad Lake, the longest lake in India, stretching 100 kilometers.
When Saint Thomas founded a thriving Christian community here, he consecrated a Cross for the faithful. This cross was later desecrated by vandals who cut it and threw it into the lake. Miraculously, the Cross floated upstream to Pallippuram, where it was rediscovered and enshrined. Today, a replica of the original Cross stands in this historic church.
Among the seven churches, this church is one of only two to have been blessed by a Pope, in recognition of its profound sacred significance. In 2014, Pope Benedict XVI consecrated this church and grotto during its rebuilding, as noted on the foundation stone plaque.
Adorned with intricate artworks and ornately carved icons, the church sanctuary was a sacred haven that inspired reverence and awe.
The church is home to the miraculous portrait of Saint Thomas, which was brought from the Carmelite Monastery in Mannanam, a renowned pilgrimage site in Kottayam district, following a divine revelation.
While the Christian faith is witnessing an alarming decline in the West, it continues to thrive in Eastern regions like Kerala. Who would have guessed that an Apostle who once doubted Christ would prove that doubt can be a powerful catalyst for faith, ultimately finding redemption through his missionary work in India.
Doubting Thomas is indeed a paradox.
Nilackal
Nilackal’s inaccessibility was a journey in itself. At an elevation of over a thousand feet on a hill in the Pathanamthitta district, this place is surrounded by dense forests, it has no proper transportation routes save for a narrow stretch. Locals warned me that the rough road is notorious for tiger sightings. The long, winding road to the church led me through a forest, where I stumbled upon fresh elephant tracks.
Reaching this place is a challenge even in the 21st century, which made me think about the Apostle’s journey to this very spot nearly 2000 years ago.
Sadly, this sacred site has a tumultuous past. A local told me that this church doesn’t stand in the same location as its original predecessor, founded by Saint Thomas in 54 AD. Over the centuries, the local Hindu community demolished the original church and built a temple in its place.
Following years of disputes and persecution, a new church was finally constructed on a remote, alternate site.
In contrast to the other six churches, which are either Catholic or Orthodox, this adopted an ecumenical approach, embracing unity across denominational lines, effectively making it the world’s first ecumenical church.
Not only was this church the smallest, but it was also the remotest.
Saint Thomas baptized 1100 locals here and founded a Cross, which paved the way for the church. This church has faced relentless persecution and protests from local Hindu groups, threatening its very existence.
The church houses a revered wooden cross, standing as a symbol of resilience. In the 15th century, Nilackal was destroyed by enemy attack, prompting a devout man, Thommi Mappila, to rescue the sacred wooden cross and flee to Kanjirapally in Kottayam district. Centuries later, when the Nilackal church was rebuilt in the 1980s, Thommi Mappila’s descendants returned the cross to its rightful place.
Today, this church stands as a beacon of hope, reminding us to keep our hearts steadfast and strong, despite the obstacles that may come our way.
Niranam
After my ascent to Nilackal, I headed downward to Niranam, a village in the same district. It was once a port in ancient Kerala at the confluence of two rivers. In its prime, Niranam had trade relations with the Roman Empire and the Middle East.
Saint Thomas sailed from Kollam and arrived at Thomathukadavu, a place near Niranam, with its name translating to ‘the jetty where Thomas arrived’ in the vernacular. Soil analysis indicates that Niranam, which is now mostly land, was once a coastal region where the river joined the sea in the first century.
When the Apostle first preached in this region, he baptized the early Christians near the Pamba River. Four local families embraced the faith, and he ordained some of their members as priests, entrusting them to lead the church.
An artistic sculpture depicting the water miracle performed by Saint Thomas is also found here.
As the church was adjacent to a Saivite temple, opponents of the new faith desecrated the cross founded by the Apostle and hurled it into the river. The cross was subsequently recovered from the downstream and reinstalled east of the river, at the site of the present church.
A notable relic from the past is the tall granite cross situated to the right of the entrance, dating back to 1259, when the church underwent its third renovation.
Apostle Thomas founded the St. Mary’s Orthodox Church, also known as the Niranam Valiyapally, in 54 AD.
The church is dedicated to the Theotokos, the Blessed Virgin Mary.
Niranam has been a citadel of Orthodoxy since its inception. I felt blessed to attend the Holy Qurbana, the sacred Eucharistic liturgy of Syriac Christianity, that lasted two hours.
In accordance with Orthodox tradition, the church has no pews, and the faithful stand in reverence throughout the Divine Liturgy. It was truly inspiring to see even the elderly members of the congregation standing with unwavering devotion alongside me for the entire duration.
The veil of the Holy Sanctuary (Madhaha) holds profound spiritual significance. As a sacred threshold to heaven, it safeguards the Sanctuary’s holiness and represents the restoration of communion with God. During worship, the priests draw the veil, symbolically uniting heaven and earth.
The curtain covering the iconostasis represents the ancient Temple of Jerusalem’s curtain, separating the Holy of Holies. The red hue signifies victory, resurrection, and the Blood of Christ shed for humanity, while honoring the martyrs who sacrificed for their faith.
The sanctuary features a bronze thookkuvilakku (traditional hanging oil lamp). Light signifies Christ, the light of the world. The lamp is suspended from above symbolizing heaven. After the spread of Christianity in Kerala, the Syrian Christians assimilated their existing cultural traditions with their newfound faith.
There are five altars dedicated to Mother Mary, Saint George, Mar Behnam, Saint Thomas, and Saint Stephen here.
After the Holy Qurbana concluded, a priest kindly took me on a tour of the church, delving into its fascinating history.
Designed in the style of a traditional Kerala home, the Niranam heritage museum showcases artifacts across centuries.
Among its most prized treasures is the sacred relic of Saint Thomas which was brought from the ancient Church of Saint Thomas in Mosul, Iraq.
The reliquary bears an inscription in Syriac, a language that continues to be spoken by Christians in Iraq to this day. I asked a Syriac scholar and he translated it to: Oh Mar Thoma (St. Thomas), You are the wise physician. For, your Lord has given you the authority to cure the wounded. Behold, our race takes refuge in the fragrance of your bones. Let all our petitions be granted by your prayers.
This sacred site is where the Virgin Mary miraculously appeared in 1916 to three thieves who attempted to steal the golden cross in the wee hours of the morning.
Saint Gregorios, a revered Orthodox saint, spent a considerable amount of time at Niranam, and the sacred artifacts he personally used during his stay here have been meticulously preserved for posterity.
Priceless 600-year-old leaf paintings and manuscripts are meticulously preserved in an underground cellar here, dating back to the church’s third reconstruction.
Kollam
My pilgrimage next took me to Quilon (Kollam), a port city along the Arabian Sea coast. This ancient trading hub once rivaled the likes of Alexandria and Cairo.
Saint Thomas founded the Port Kollam Church over here in 53 AD. Over the centuries, the original church built here was repeatedly destroyed by sea erosion, only to be rebuilt.
The Apostle stayed here for a year and preached, bringing 1400 locals to the faith.
The second church Tharisapally was built around AD 850, coinciding with the founding of Kollam city by Persian merchant Maruvan Sapir Ishir, accompanied by his notable companions Mar Sabor and Mar Proth. Tharisapally was endowed with extensive land grants in Kollam, documented in the historic Quilon Syrian copper plates.
The remnants of the second church can still be seen when the waves recede in the sea and are known as Pallikallu (the stone of the great church) among local fishermen.
Quilon holds the distinction of being India’s first diocese, designated as such by Pope John XXII in 1329. After the arrival of the Portuguese in the sixteenth century, they controlled and influenced this church, leading to its Latinization.
Dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary, the church is officially called Our Lady of Purification Church.
In 1986, Pope John Paul II laid the foundation stone for its reconstruction during his Apostolic Pilgrimage to India.
While Saint Thomas is revered as the first Apostle of India, Saint Francis Xavier is regarded as the second Apostle, continuing his legacy.
This church was also blessed by the visit of the latter, who stopped here as part of his missionary journey along the Malabar coast. This historic visit took place during the Xaverian Decade (1542-1552), a transformative period when the saint dedicated himself to charitable and pastoral work in India, spreading God’s love to the people.
This church serves the Latin Catholic community, who follow the Latin rite and descend from marginalized fisherfolk converted by Portuguese missionaries in the 16th century.
The Syro-Malabar Catholics, who follow the East Syriac Rite, trace their lineage to the apostolic ministry of Saint Thomas and have historically enjoyed greater economic prosperity in Kerala due to better access to land ownership and opportunities.
This denominational divide has led to an underlying rift between the two communities. So much for a faith that teaches, “For you are all one in Christ Jesus.”
Thiruvithamcode
Thiruvithamcode marked the final destination of my pilgrimage, a small town close to Cape Comorin, India’s southernmost tip.
You might wonder, aren’t there only seven churches? Wouldn’t one more make it eight? Yes and no. While technically there are seven churches, the eighth church founded by Saint Thomas is regarded as a ‘half church’ (arapally).
In 63 AD, as part of his mission, the Apostle erected a cross at this site, bringing a few locals to the faith and ordaining two priests before departing for Madras, where he met his martyrdom.
Under the patronage of the king, a church was built on this site, revered today as the St. Mary’s Orthodox Church, also known as Thomaiyar Kovil (St. Thomas Shrine).
Walking into the church was like stepping into a bygone era. A church is the house of God, and this one closely resembled a traditional house.
This church stands out for having the oldest surviving building among the seven and a half churches, with its structure dating back to the 17th century.
Contrary to its name, the half church offers a wholesome experience.
Today, two thousand years later, Saint Thomas Christians number around 4 million, comprising approximately 20% of Kerala’s population and reside not only in Kerala but also in the global diaspora. All because of the undying missionary zeal of one man, across India.
After visiting the seven and a half churches and traveling for 483 kilometers, I was deeply inspired by the Apostle who selflessly dedicated his life to preaching the Word of God, fulfilling Matthew 28:19, which says, “Therefore go and make disciples of all nations, baptizing them in the name of the Father and of the Son and of the Holy Spirit.”
Time may pass, but the flame of faith he kindled continues to burn bright, leading millions to the Light, now and for generations to come.
