If Tbilisi is known for its rich culture and bustling streets, and Batumi is known for its stunning beaches and vibrant nightlife, then Kutaisi stands out as a serene countryside escape away from the fast-paced city life.
Thanks to its rich natural abundance, this place offers a glimpse into the authentic rural life of Georgia. In other words — peaceful, green, and full of life.
A row of lush green trees greeted me as I got off at the Kutaisi Airport Railway Station after a three-hour journey from the capital city of Tbilisi. I had the pleasure of meeting a co-passenger named Artem, a US-based start-up founder who's currently a digital nomad in Kutaisi.
I was all set to spend two days in Kutaisi. While going through the streets, I noticed a lot of large country houses, a complete change from the towering apartments of Tbilisi.
One distinctive feature was the presence of a mini iconostasis outside most homes. It was a common sight to see folks stopping by the sacred icon to offer a quick prayer.
The first destination on my list was the historic Motsameta Monastery, situated on the outskirts of the city.
The long, narrow path to the monastery was deserted in the morning but I had company in the form of a who walked alongside me to the church. That’s him right there.
Soon I found myself standing in front of the 11th-century Motsameta Monastery, which majestically sits on riverside cliff. Behind this elegant structure is a bittersweet history to tell.
Motsameta means ‘Place of the Martyrs’ in Georgian. In the 8th century, the ruling princes of Argveti, the brothers David and Constantine, organized a rebellion against the invading armies. When their rebellion failed, they were captured and were promised forgiveness in exchange for their conversions.
Since the brothers refused to do so, they were tortured to death, and their bodies were thrown into the river. The water turned red and in memory of this event, the river was named Tskaltsitela, which means the River of Red Water.
The brothers were eventually canonized by the Georgian Orthodox Church, and their remains were enshrined in the altar of this monastery dedicated to their memory. Over the centuries, the monastery became a pilgrimage site. The tragic history of the Mkheidze brothers serves as a reminder of the enduring faith and courage of the Georgian people in the face of adversity.
The panoramic view of the monastery surrounded by the serene green hills coupled with the gentle sound of the flowing river instils a sense of tranquility.
A few minutes later, I bumped into Juanpablo, who had also come to visit the monastery. He struck up a conversation and told me he was on a worldwide tour in his campervan. He had traveled almost 5000 km all the way from Spain to Georgia. His ambitious plan is to continue his adventure by driving all the way to Mongolia and then making the long journey back to Spain. And that’s not the surprising part. He’s doing all this at the age of 67!
I then hitchhiked to the city center with a friendly Georgian family to reach the Kutaisi Synagogue. This was built in 1886, making it one of the oldest synagogues in the Caucasus. The inscription on the gate said that Jewish people have lived in Kutaisi since the Middle Ages.
The following day took me to the Bagrati Cathedral, situated on a hill in the heart of the city.
Built in 1003 during the reign of King Bagrat III, the cathedral is over a millennium old and is among the four Great Cathedrals of the Georgian Orthodox Church. In 1994, it was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The interiors reverberated with the hauntingly beautiful sound of sacred Georgian chants. The sacred space spoke not only of its architectural magnificence but also spiritual significance in the Orthodox world.
The intricately designed reliquary housed holy relics of the early saints of the Church, including that of Saint Thomas the Apostle.
During the Soviet occupation of Georgia, the cathedral was abandoned but was eventually restored after the fall of the Soviet Union.
The cross of the Bagrati Cathedral makes for an excellent vantage point to view the city’s elegance, while standing as a symbol of religious resilience over the years.
Later on, I headed to the Prometheus Caves located in Tsalktubo, a 30-minute drive from Kutaisi. Beneath the lush green cover, a hidden world awaits to be discovered.
Exploring the underground cave is an otherworldly experience that feels like stepping into a scene from a Star Wars movie. The cave is about 11 km in length, of which 2 km is open to visitors.
The caves are best known for their amazing natural formations, including stalactites and stalagmites that have been formed over thousands of years.
Stalactites grow down from the cave ceiling, while stalagmites grow up from the cave floor. An easy way to remember is that stalactites have a T for top and stalagmites have a G for ground.
As I descended into the depths of the cave, the temperature kept dropping, giving literal chills. The dim lighting added to the mysterious and otherworldly atmosphere of the caves. It was surreal to be 262 feet below ground level.
One of the unique features of the cave is the underground river that flows inside it.
This formation was eerie enough to make you see faces in it.
After almost an hour in relative darkness, there was light at the end of the tunnel. Finally, it was time to go up to the real world.
A signboard at the exit point read ‘Look around, here is Georgia, the world of your desires.’ Well, couldn't agree more.
On reaching the city center, I asked around if there are any good places to eat. A passerby suggested Eldepo, a go-to destination for those seeking authentic local cuisine.
My order was a plate of lobiani (traditional Georgian bread stuffed with beans) and khinkali (dumplings bursting with cheese. The dish traces its origins to the mountainous regions of Georgia, where it was a popular food for shepherds). I left the restaurant with a newfound appreciation for Georgian cuisine.
Leaving Kutaisi feels like bidding goodbye to a new friend. From the monasteries to the caves to the local food, the city was full of surprises. I know that someday, our paths will cross again.
