Painting the Town Red in Malacca

Malacca is a city steeped in history, heritage, and culture. Over the centuries, the Portuguese, the Dutch, the British, and the Japanese conquered and controlled it. But honestly, can you blame them? It’s so stunning that everyone wanted a piece of this historic port city.

Known as the Venice of the East, because of its canal system which made it a prominent trading hub, the city prides itself as an UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The moment you step into Malacca, it’s as if you’ve landed on Mars. Red is what defines the city. The vibrant hues are ubiquitous, from the red streets to historic landmarks to the lanterns that light the way.

The city center is called — no prizes for guessing — Red Square, owing to the red buildings built by the Dutch during their rule.

The Stadthuys (city hall in Dutch) is a historic structure built in 1650, known for its distinctive red exterior and nearby clock tower.

The square houses the replica of a windmill, regarded as an icon of Dutch culture.

These painted bulls came as a prelude to Malacca’s thriving art scene.

Christ Church proudly stood at the heart of the square. Founded in 1753, it’s the oldest functioning Protestant church in Southeast Asia.

In 1741, the Dutch marked the centenary of their capture of Malacca from the Portuguese by building a new church, which was completed twelve years later and became the primary Dutch Reformed Church in Dutch Malacca. But with the Anglo-Dutch Treaty of 1824, the East India Company took over, and the church was reconsecrated under the Church of England. 

Designed in the Dutch colonial architectural style, the church houses wooden ceiling beams and elaborately carved pews.

There were centuries-old plaques in Dutch, Armenian, and English.

Today, the church draws visitors from all over the world and holds services in English and Mandarin every Sunday. They recently celebrated their 270th anniversary in 2023.

Inside the church was a store selling souvenirs and holy articles. I bought a small banner as a memento before leaving.

Decorated cartoon-themed soft-toy trishaws lined the square. From Pokémon to Doraemon, Hello Kitty to Spiderman, there was something for everyone. Not only kids, it was surprising to see adults also travel in them.

Situated nearby is the Queen Victoria Fountain, erected by the British in 1901 as a memorial to Queen Victoria who died that year. The fountain was imported from London and assembled in Malacca. The base features bas-relief portraits of the late queen.

Malacca’s sights and sounds are best explored on foot. After paying a visit to the historic Christ Church, I strolled through the streets of the old town to visit another iconic church within walking distance.

St. Paul’s Church was located on top of the hill and the uphill trek was well worth the effort.

Saint Paul’s Church is the oldest church in Southeast Asia. In 1521, Portuguese sea captain Duarte Coelho built the church as an act of thanksgiving for his crew’s narrow escape from a Chinese fleet during a raging storm in the South China Sea.

Despite being in ruins, the church still draws visitors from across the globe, thanks to its historical significance.

The eminent Saint Francis Xavier travelled around Asia and stayed at Malacca on several occasions between 1545 and 1552. He used this chapel as his base for his missionary journeys to China and Japan.

During one of his missionary journeys, Saint Francis Xavier fell sick and died in China in 1552.  His incorruptible body was initially brought to Malacca, where it was temporarily buried in this church for nine months before being shipped to Goa. An open grave inside the church commemorates the saint’s brief burial here.

Since 1922, a Catholic mass has been celebrated annually at this church by the parish priest of St. Francis Xavier Church, a tradition that continues to this very day.

A row of intricately engraved Portuguese tombstones dating back to the 1600s were on display.

To commemorate the 400th anniversary of St. Francis Xavier’s mission in Malacca, a statue of the saint was imported from Rome and erected in front of the church ruins in 1953. What sets this statue apart from other artistic depictions of the saint is its missing right hand. This is because his right forearm, which he used to bless and baptize people, was amputated after his death.  

In 1548, St. Francis Xavier established a school in the premises of St. Paul’s Church, which was Malaysia’s first modern school.

Catholic missionaries played a pivotal role in shaping Malaysia’s education landscape. Near the church, I stumbled upon the Sacred Heart Canossian Convent, a 120-year-old institution dedicated to providing education and care to children and orphans.

At the foot of the hill is the fort of A Famosa (famous in Portuguese). The fort is made up of red laterite stone, characteristic of Portuguese colonial architecture.

The fort was built in 1512 after Afonso de Albuquerque and his troops conquered Malacca. It was demolished by the British in the 18th century and all that remains today is its gateway.

A cannon that saw action during the Portuguese conquests stands outside the fort.

I stopped by the Maritime Museum to delve deeper into the Portuguese conquests. The museum is an exquisitely crafted small-sized replica of the Flor de la Mar (Flower of the Sea), the flagship of the Portuguese armada that conquered Malacca in 1511. It was the largest carrack ship of its time.

The upper deck of the ship offered a wonderful view of the Malacca River below.

The museum gave me a deep dive into the world of maritime exploration and sea warfare. The artifacts intrigued me, especially since I used to play Age of Empires as a kid.

The statues of Malay warriors told the story of their resistance against the Portuguese conquest of the Malacca Sultanate.

Vivid paintings brought the historic sea battles to life in stunning detail.

Exploring the nearby Royal Malaysian Navy Museum provided a glimpse into the country’s naval history. Though I had seen helicopters in many Hollywood flicks, it was surreal to see a chopper up close in real life.

The Melaka River Cruise was among the highlights of my trip. As we drifted by, I spotted a few monitor lizards poking their heads out of the mangroves.

The 45-minute cruise took us through the river’s tranquil waters, passing under bridges and revealing picturesque landscapes, making for a memorable experience. 

The audio commentary on board told us about the interesting places we saw during the cruise.

The vibrant street art that adorned the riverbanks was a visual treat, capturing the city’s spirit. 

Overlooking the Malacca River is the Church of St. Francis Xavier, built by a French priest in 1849. This Neo-Gothic church is modeled after the Cathedral of St. Peter in Montpellier, France.

I continued my exploration of Malacca’s spiritual heritage by stepping into the St. Peter’s Church. Built in 1710 by descendants of early Portuguese settlers during the Dutch era of occupation of Malacca, it’s the oldest functioning Roman Catholic church in Malaysia.

The church exuded an aura of peace, reminding me of the importance of quiet contemplation in a busy world.

The belfry features a bell which is one hundred years older than the church itself, having been cast in Goa in 1608.

The church signboard told me about a nearby historic chapel associated with this church.

Along the way, I dropped by the dainty Assumption Chapel that was built in the 1880s.

During the Feast of the Assumption in August, local Catholics bring stalks of sugarcane, which are blessed and distributed along with scented dried flowers. This tradition dates back to the Dutch occupation, when Catholics were persecuted for their religious beliefs. According to locals, there was a large sugarcane plantation in the vicinity and the cane was used as a discreet offering.

Next, I took a Grab to the quaint Malaccan town of Krubong to visit the Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe.

The current church is built on the grounds of the original 400-year-old ruined church, erected by the Portuguese in the 1600s. It was one of the three Catholic churches built by the Portuguese in the early 17th century along the Krubong River, a tributary of the Malacca River. During the Dutch conquest of Malacca, the church was left unused due to different religious ideologies and eventually fell to ruin.

The red laterite stones from the early church’s ruins are now on display in the church's garden.

The origins behind the current church is nothing short of a miracle. In 1993, a young man named Philip Heng dreamt of discovering a ruined church in a thick jungle by the riverside in Malacca. Though he faced numerous challenges in looking for the church, he persevered nevertheless. His determination paid off when a Malay led him through rubber estates and thick undergrowth to the church’s ruins, which mirrored his dream. When the new church was completed and modified, it looked identical to the church in Philip’s dream.

Every December, the church honours Our Lady of Guadalupe with a celebratory feast day. The church’s influence now reaches far beyond Malacca, touching hearts across the country and abroad.

In addition to the actual doors, the church premises also featured two philosophical doors, the Door of Faith and the Door of Mercy.

I made my way to the Taming Sari Tower, Malaysia’s first and tallest rotating tower.

The tower lets you enjoy a thrilling 7-minute ride with 360-degree views of the city’s coastline.

Then, I headed to the Malacca Straits Mosque, situated on the man-made Malacca Island. With its striking gold dome, the mosque overlooks the Strait of Malacca and appears to float on water, being built on stilts. Its striking design blends Middle Eastern and Malay architectural styles.

The gentle rustle of the sea breeze and the sound of waves crashing against the shore were in harmony with the peaceful ambiance inside the mosque.

The compound has a 100-feet tall minaret that not only calls the faithful to pray, but also doubles up as a lighthouse in the night.

Malacca is a city where the East meets the West, where the past meets the future, and where you meet the warm and welcoming smiles of its people.

The heritage city left me with a newfound appreciation for the beauty of history.