Manapad may be a small village, but it comes with a huge legacy. Located on the Pearl Fishery Coast in southern India, this pilgrim destination has a rich history dating back centuries.
A gateway, adorned with five crosses, welcomed me to the village as I entered. Right in the middle was the Chi-Rho monogram, referring to the first two letters of Christ (Khristos) in Greek.
To my side, the serene waters of the Karumeni River flowed, with the Manapad Bridge spanning them to link the village to the mainland.
After walking for a while, I spotted a cross standing tall atop a hillock towards which I made an uphill climb.
The history behind this place is nothing short of a miracle. In 1540, a Portuguese trading vessel bound for the East embarked on a tumultuous journey around the Cape of Good Hope. But fate had other plans when a raging storm ravaged the ship, breaking its mast and leaving it on the brink of disaster.
The captain prayed and entrusted the safety of his crew and vessel to Christ. He made a solemn vow that if they survived, he would craft a cross from the splintered mast and plant it on the shores where they found refuge. The ship miraculously drifted towards Manapad, where the captain fulfilled his vow by crafting a cross from the broken mast and planting it upon this hillock.
A namesake church was eventually built to venerate the Holy Cross, and from that day onward, it stands as a testament to God’s saving grace for generations to come.
The illustration of this historic event can be seen on the walls of the altar. In 1583, the priest at Manapad made a petition to Rome, seeking a fragment of the revered True Cross. Pope Gregory XIII graciously granted the request, and the sacred relic was enshrined within the church. The relic is exposed to the public during the Feast of the Exaltation of the Holy Cross every September.
From the hillock, I caught sight of the silhouettes of the village’s two other major churches that stood out prominently in the skyline.
Pilgrims thronged the place from all over, including two German priests I met during my visit.
Among the most remarkable visitors to this sacred site was Saint Francis Xavier, considered one of the greatest missionaries since Paul the Apostle, who arrived here in October 1542. He lived and preached here for almost two years as part of his mission. It’s notable that this village had a significant Catholic population even before he set foot here.
While living among the locals, he performed miracles that profoundly impacted the community, and he was revered as a saint by those in and around the region, a century before his formal canonization by the Church. Today, a petite shrine stands in his memory, overlooking the sea.
Curious to know what the board inside the shrine says, I used Google Lens to translate and it turned out to be this verse from the Gospel of Matthew. “For what is a man profited, if he shall gain the whole world, and lose his own soul?”
These words embody the life lived by the saint. Despite hailing from a royal family, Francis Xavier left behind a life of wealth to spread the word of God and uplift others, living in frugal simplicity detached from worldly pleasures.
I then descended down to the hermit cave where he lived and meditated in solitude in his pursuit of spiritual enlightenment.
Upon entering the cave, I was enveloped by a sense of sacred silence. The sound of waves crashing outside faded into the background as time seemed to stand still.
This well quenched the physical thirst of Saint Francis Xavier, who in turn quenched the spiritual thirst of many.
The cave’s caretaker offered me a glass of the holy water from the well, and its sweet taste was refreshing.
A granite stone inscription traced the journey of Francis Xavier’s missions. It proudly declared, ‘You stand in the holy and privileged place where St. Francis Xavier stayed and preached the Gospel for 27 months.’ From Manapad, he continued his journey onward to Malacca.
Behind the Holy Cross Church was the Manapad Lighthouse, over a century old.
Built by the British in 1888, the lighthouse initially operated on gas before being electrified.
On making my way to the top, I was rewarded with a vantage point of the entire village. The churches, the sea, the boats, the houses, all blended together like a painting.
Seafaring is the primary occupation of this fishing village renowned for its longstanding maritime heritage.
The fresh catch of the day was showcased along the streets, with fisherfolk enthusiastically hawking to the passersby.
A woman was carefully arranging an array of decorative seashells in her beachside stall. This scene immediately reminded me of the popular tongue twister, ‘She sells sea shells by the seashore.’
There were quite a few eateries near the church catering to the pilgrims. Mind you, these aren’t traditional restaurants but family-run establishments which are extensions of their homes.
My lunch was a steaming plate of rice paired with spicy fish curry, crispy fried barracuda, and beets. Savouring this meal while gazing at the ocean was a fantastic combo.
I then headed to the St. James Church, which has been around since 1585. This grey-and-gold church is administered by the Jesuits, the holy order co-founded by Saint Francis Xavier.
A few blocks away from the church stands the Holy Ghost Church, built in 1851 on the site of its 16th-century predecessor destroyed by the Dutch. While the St. James Church was traditionally administered by the Jesuits, this parish church, on the other hand, was controlled by Goan priests with ties to Portugal.
Just outside the church stood the statue of Sir Donatus Victoria, a politician who served in the British Senate and worked towards the social development of the people of this region.
The nearby Manapad Library was a remnant of a bygone era. Despite being currently non-operational, its century-old charm endures. The Latin phrase ‘Oportet illum regnare’ (He must reign) was engraved in the entrance stood as a testament to the Christian heritage.
The Jesuits played an integral role in promoting education globally, establishing schools and libraries wherever they went. Their intellectual emphasis created a culture of learning, leaving their legacy in the regions they visited.
Yet another dilapidated structure was the 1941-built radio house. Once a vital lifeline for remote villages like Manapad, radio waves helped transit information before the advent of telephones and the internet.
I spotted more sculptures and busts in the churchyard, each one meticulously designed.
The reverence for Saint Francis Xavier was also evident here, with several busts of him standing vigil in the cemeteries.
Apart from the three main churches, Manapad’s streets were dotted with several chapels and grottos, lovingly built and maintained by the local community.
The village is made up of over 1500 Catholic families. Francis Xavier wrote to a fellow Jesuit in 1544, “Something is developing here that is very important for the service of God. Ask the Lord God that it comes out well and is brought to light. I earnestly ask you to treat the people whom you have with great love; for if you are on good terms with your people and are loved by them, you will render great service to God.”
The locals I encountered in Manapad were incredibly warm and welcoming. Their strong devotion plays a central role in their lives, and is reflected in the façades of their homes.
As the sun dipped into the horizon, I waded into the calm waters of Manapad Beach. In the background, the tolling of the Holy Cross Church bell blended in harmony with the waves.
Pope Leo XIII once famously referred to Manapad as ‘Little Jerusalem’ in his writings owing to its religious significance. After visiting the village, I have to say that it has truly lived up to its sobriquet.
