Visiting Mtskheta, the ancient capital of Georgia, was like stepping back in time.
Today, the city proudly stands as a living testament to the country’s vibrant past and religious heritage.
After I boarded the train from Tbilsi Central, I watched as the urban landscape of Tbilisi gradually gave way to a rural setting. The tall buildings and bustling streets were soon replaced by vast expanses of greenery and rolling hills.
Nestled in a picturesque setting, Mtskheta is surrounded by towering mountains that create a stunning backdrop for the town.
As I gazed upon the landscape, my eyes were drawn to the majestic silhouette of the Jvari Monastery perched atop a distant mountain peak.
Along the way were some classic houses lining the streets. Modest in size, but elegant nevertheless.
I wandered through the cobblestone streets, making my way to the most exceptional structure in Mtskheta, if not all of Georgia. It was surreal walking in the footsteps of countless pilgrims who had come before me.
Originally established in the 4th century, the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral (Cathedral of the Living Pillar) is a Georgian Orthodox cathedral and UNESCO World Heritage site.
It is impossible to tell the history of Georgia, without mentioning Saint Nino, who had a profound impact on the country. Saint Nino arrived in the ancient Georgian Kingdom of Iberia around 320 AD to preach the Gospel. She began her mission in the capital city of Mtskheta, where King Mirian III and his nation worshiped pagan deities. Queen Nana, who was ill, requested to meet Nino. After Nino prayed over the Queen and healed her, the latter became Christian.
However, King Mirian was initially opposed to his wife's newfound faith. A turning point came in the form of a hunting trip, where he was suddenly struck blind. Desperate, he prayed to God, seeking deliverance. He miraculously regained his vision. This led him to renounce idolatry and become the first Christian King of Georgia.
Under Nino’s spiritual guidance, his household and the people of Mtskheta embraced Christianity. In 326, King Mirian declared Christianity the state religion, making Georgia the world’s second Christian state after Armenia. Interestingly, Nino is the second-most common name for women in Georgia, preceded by Mariam.
Svetitskhoveli was originally built during the reign of Mirian. In the 1st century, a Georgian Jew from Mtskheta named Elias was in Jerusalem when Jesus was crucified. Elias got Jesus’ robe from a Roman soldier at Golgotha and brought it back to Georgia. Returning to his native city, he was greeted by his sister Sidonia, who, upon touching the Robe, immediately died from the emotions generated by the sacred object. The robe could not be removed from her dead hands, so she was buried with it.
Eventually, a cedar grew from Sidonia’s grave. Saint Nino ordered the tree to be chopped down into seven pillars to build the church. One of the pillars had healing properties. This gave the church its name Svetitskhoveli, which means “the Life-Giving Pillar” in Georgian. The place where Sidonia is buried with the robe is preserved in the cathedral. Here’s an icon depicting this event inside the church.
The robe of Christ lies beneath a square pillar inside the church.
Svetitskhoveli is considered one of the four Great Cathedrals of the Georgian Orthodox world, the other three being Bagrati, Alaverdi, and Oshki.
The scent of incense lingered in the air as I entered the historic cathedral. Georgians as well as tourists from far and wide came together to witness the divine beauty.
Svetitskhoveli is renowned for its stunning frescoes that adorn its interior walls. Each fresco is a work of art in its own right, with meticulous attention to detail and vibrant colours that have stood the test of time, preserving the religious significance of the cathedral for the generations to come.
The sanctuary of the church features a huge icon of Christ, seated on a throne surrounded by angels, exuding grace and majesty.
One of the most striking paintings is the mural of Every Living Soul Praises the Lord. Based on verses from Psalms 148-150, this painting beautifully brings the scripture to life.
Svetitskhoveli serves as the principal cathedral of the Georgian Orthodox Church and has been the religious center of Georgia for over a millennium now. The cathedral is the place of enthronement of the Georgian Catholicos-Patriarchs.
The dome is something worth looking up to — both literally and figuratively. There was an almost-faded painting of Christ. Sunlight entered the church through the windows of the dome, casting a golden glow below.
Among other sacred relics, the cathedral also houses the ankle of Saint Andrew the Apostle.
Ten Georgian monarchs have been buried in the cathedral, one of whom is King Vakhtang I, the founder of Tbilisi. In the 5th century, Vakhtang Gorgasali rebuilt Mirian’s church. The current version of the church was built in 1010.
While most churches in Europe predominantly use the Latin Cross or the Orthodox Cross, the Georgian Orthodox Church uses the Cross of Saint Nino.
The cathedral is surrounded by a defensive wall with eight towers. I felt like I was standing inside a medieval castle.
Only after examining a miniature replica of the cathedral did I realize how enormous it is in reality.
My next stop was the Jvari Monastery, perched on a cliff at an elevation of 2152 feet
Jvari means ‘cross’ in Georgian. In the 4th century, Saint Nino had erected a large cross over here. The cross was renowned to work miracles and drew pilgrims from all over the Caucasus. A church was eventually built in 545 by King Guaram I of Iberia over the remnants of the cross, the pedestal of which can still be found here.
Since the small church could not accommodate the incoming number of pilgrims, a larger church was founded in 590 by the King’s heir.
The ruins of the old church can be found near the monastery.
In stark contrast to the grandeur of Svetitskhoveli, the interiors of Jvari were humble and cozy.
The exterior façade of the church is decorated with artistic bas-reliefs.
The monastery complex offered a captivating view of the confluence of the Mtkvari and Aragvi rivers below. During the early centuries, people were baptized in these waters.
From the moment I set foot in this historic city, I was enveloped in a sense of sacredness and reverence that seemed to permeate every corner of the cobblestone streets. As I reflect on my time in Mtskheta, I am filled with gratitude for the opportunity to embark on this pilgrimage.
