My journey to Tbilisi was more than just a trip. It’s a doorway to the past, where centuries of history beautifully intertwine with the modern day, giving birth to a timeless gem of a city.
Gazing out the window, I watched as the desert landscape of Abu Dhabi gave way to the lush greenery of Tbilisi, a welcome change.
I hailed a Bolt (European equivalent of Uber) from the airport and settled into the charming Green House Hostel in Old Tbilisi, a district which is called so because of its historical significance. This put me at a walking distance to churches, forts, museums, and sulphur bathhouses. The host Maia was warm and welcoming. Her sprawling house-turned-hostel made me feel at home.
From the moment I arrived, the city never ceased to amaze. The bustling streets of Tbilisi are best explored on foot, and I did just that.
Freedom Square serves as the city’s beating heart, full of life and activity. It’s dedicated to the independence of the Georgian nation from the repressive Soviet Union’s stranglehold.
The patron saint of Georgia is, no guesses here, Saint George, whose gold-covered statue stood proud at the top.
Tbilisi’s streets came alive as a vibrant canvas of creativity. Inspired by Berlin, the city’s urban art scene celebrated its rich cultural heritage through visual storytelling.
A parade of bronze statues greeted me as I walked further, each telling an unique story.
Graffiti-covered walls lined the streets with quirky and bold social commentary. Among them were messages reflecting anti-Russian and anti-police sentiment. No surprises here, given the country’s tumultuous political climate. If you played a drinking game where you take a shot every time you spot ‘f**k Russia’ in Georgia, you’d need a liver transplant.
Another graffiti screamed “Eat the rich!” I was hungry at that time, and considered it. But my budget could afford only something simpler.
Visiting Georgia and not tasting khachapuri is like visiting New York and not seeing the Statue of Liberty or the Times Square. In simple terms, khachapuri could be called the Georgian version of pizza, only much better.
Sabatono drew me in with its reputation for serving authentic Georgian cuisine. The dimly lit restaurant ambience set the perfect mood for the hearty meal to come.
The variant I tried was khachapuri adjarian, shaped like a boat. No wonder this dish is called cheese boat in America. As I tore into the khachapuri, the crispy, golden crust made way for the creamy richness of cheese. Fun fact: Over 250 varieties of cheese are produced in Georgia. Next on my plate was kharcho, traditional Georgian beef soup seasoned with spices and fresh herbs.
After bread for the body, I sought bread for the soul. My search led me to the sixth-century Anchiskhati Basilica, the oldest surviving church in Tbilisi. The interiors of the church feature intricate frescoes dating back centuries. The Anchiskhati Choir is renowned for Georgian polyphonic choral music.
Anchiskhati traces its name to the Ancha Icon of the Savior which was moved to this church from modern-day Turkey to preserve it from an Ottoman invasion. This revered medieval Georgian icon features an image of Jesus Christ, miraculously transferred through contact with the sacred Image of Edessa.
During my visit, a baptism ceremony was taking place. As the priest blessed the child, the mother’s loving embrace enveloped her little one. A heartwarming sight indeed.
I then proceeded to the 6th-century Kashveti Church. Kashveti traces its name to a miracle attributed to Saint David of Gareji, one of thirteen Assyrian priests who came to Georgia in the sixth century to strengthen the Christian faith. David quickly became popular with the people of Tbilisi and his Christian community grew rapidly. This irked the Persian occupiers and they bribed a pregnant woman to falsely claim she was pregnant with his child.
When David returned to his congregation in the city, he was greeted by an outraged crowd, which included the woman. Saint David responded that if he were guilty, then she would deliver a baby, but if he were innocent, then she would deliver a stone. True to his words, the woman gave birth to a stone. Inspired by the miracle, the people founded a church in the place where the miracle took place and named it ‘Kashveti,’ which means ‘to give birth to a stone’.
The interiors feature vibrant frescoes painted by the celebrated Georgian artist Lado Gudiashvili using the ancient method of encaustic painting, which is known for its longevity.
Across the historic church was the Georgian Parliament. The building reminded me of the White House. Since my visit coincided with the election season, the citizens eagerly awaiting the outcome, divided between the pro-Russian ruling party and the pro-EU opposition. I eventually learned that the ruling party won.
The ascent to Metekhi Church was tranquil. Perched on a cliff, this 5th-century church is situated on the bank of the river Mtkvari, the largest river in Tbilisi.
Stepping into the church transported me to the past with their historic sacred icons and atmosphere. The scent of incense pervaded in the air.
The church has an icon of the Hundred Thousand Martyrs, who are venerated as saints in the Georgian Orthodox Church. In 1226, Sultan Jalal al-Din Mangburni’s Turkmen army invaded Tbilisi. At his command, the holy icons were placed on the bridge near this church and the local Christians were forced to trample over the icons and commit apostasy.
100,000 Georgians sacrificed their lives to preserve their faith. It is written that their severed heads and headless bodies flowed down the Mtkvari River, turning it red.
Outside the church stood a horseback statue of King Vakhtang Gorgasali, who established Tbilisi in the 5th century. He majestically overlooks the city he founded.
Beneath the Metekhi Church was the Saint Abo Tbileli Church at the base of the Mtkvari River cliff.
Saint Abo of Tiflis was an 8th-century Arab Christian martyr who became the Patron Saint of Tbilisi. Despite facing persecution, he steadfastly held on to his faith until his last breath. His body was burned and the remains were thrown into the Mtkvari River. A church was eventually built at the place where he was tortured.
The Mtkvari’s gentle flow made for a picturesque riverside stroll and brought a sense of calm.
A few blocks away was the historic Sioni Cathedral. Built in the 5th century, the church is named after Mount Zion in Jerusalem.
Within its walls lies the venerated cross of Saint Nino, the patron saint of Georgia who brought Christianity to the region in the 4th century. Saint Nino crafted this cross from grapevines bound with her own hair, a symbol that defines Georgian Orthodoxy.
A scenic cable car journey took me to the panoramic summit of Sololaki Hill.
Meet Kartlis Deda (Mother of Georgia). This statue symbolizes the Georgian spirit. She warmly welcomes friends with a bowl of wine in her left hand, while steadfastly defending her land with a sword in her right. In other words, come as a friend and you are cool. Come as an enemy and you are dead.
Nearby, a wood sculptor was selling exquisite miniature wooden churches. The delicate carvings and intricate details were truly impressive.
From there, I made my way up to Narikala, an ancient 4th-century fortress. It stood as a legacy of battles fought and won, of kingdoms risen and fallen.
Inside the fortress, the 13th-century Saint Nicholas Church proudly overlooked the city. The church has a cross-shaped design, having entrances on three sides.
At the foot of Narikala fortress was the Holy Mother of God Church of Bethlehem, also known as the Upper Betlemi Church. The church houses the relics of 6000 monks from Gareja, who were brutally martyred in Easter 1615 by the invading Persian Shah.
Attending the holy liturgy at the church was a moving experience. We stood in reverential silence as the prayer unfolded.
At the end of the service, the priest blessed us with holy water, tracing a cross on our foreheads using a soft-bristled brush.
My next stop was Mtatsminda. I eagerly boarded the funicular and it was thrilling as the doors closed behind me and we began our steep ascent up the mountain. Built in 1905, the ropeway railway connects the street with the Mtatsminda Park. With its retro charm and stunning views of the city, the ride truly put the fun in the funicular.
Situated at an elevation of 2526 feet, Mtatsminda Park is the highest point in Tbilisi, and offered a breathtaking vantage point.
Sipping ice-cold coffee while working on my laptop, overlooking the city, was pure bliss. Working from the mountains trumps working from home.
Mtatsminda means ‘holy mountain’. The name traces its origin to the sixth century when the Assyrian saint David of Gareji lived and prayed in a cave here. After he left, the people built a church here and named it Mamadaviti in his memory.
The church complex houses the esteemed Mtatsminda Pantheon, a burial ground for prominent Georgian writers, artists, and national heroes.
A long walk later, I finally stood in front of the city’s most iconic landmark. The Holy Trinity Cathedral is to Tbilisi what the Eiffel Tower is to Paris. Envisioned as a symbol of the Georgian national and spiritual revival, the cathedral was built in 2004 to commemorate 2000 years from the birth of Jesus Christ and 1500 years of the Georgian Orthodox Church’s independence.
To say it is magnificent would be an understatement. Mere words can’t do it justice. It’s a wonder that will leave you speechless.
With its towering gilded central dome, this majestic cathedral is visible from any point in Tbilisi. The cathedral can accommodate up to 15,000 people, making it the third-largest Orthodox cathedral in the world. The church consists of nine chapels, five of them are located under the ground and only some are open to public.
Georgia is a land of churches, and its capital city is no exception. I had the honour of exploring 23 historic churches in Tbilisi, uncovering the city’s deep-rooted Orthodox Christian heritage. These centuries-old sacred spaces embody the nation’s tryst with God.
Georgians and Armenians are kindred spirits bound by faith, history, and culture. In addition to Georgian churches I also explored the city’s Armenian churches, which are a testament to the bond between the two countries and serves Tbilisi’s Armenians community spanning 53k people.
Khachkars (traditional Armenian cross stones) stood outside these churches as a poignant reminder of the 1.5 million victims of the Armenian Genocide by Ottoman Turkey in 1915. The khachkar on the left is a replica of one of the thousands of khachkars destroyed by the Azerbaijan in Julfa, which was historically part of Armenia.
Having visited the myriad churches of Tbilisi, I stopped by the city’s only synagogue. Built in the 1911, the red brickstone Great Synagogue of Tbilisi offered a captivating glimpse into the city’s Jewish heritage. Being one of the oldest Jewish communities in the world, the Georgian Jews trace their origins to the Jews who migrated to Georgia during the Babylonian captivity in 6th century BC.
While wandering through the city’s streets, I stumbled upon the Rike Park, an urban green space along the serene banks of the Mtkvari River.
The highlight is that the park is open round the clock. Even in the wee hours of midnight, I was surprised to find a lively atmosphere, with many people having a good time there.
Crossing the Bridge of Peace was a journey through time. This modern engineering marvel connects the historic Old Tbilisi to the city’s contemporary districts. At night, the bridge transforms into a spectacle with its LED lights. Funnily enough, the bridge has been nicknamed the “Always Ultra” bridge for its resemblance to the ladies’ maxi-pad.
Man may not live by bread alone, but Georgian men seem to be the exception. With 53 types of bread, they swear by it. Tbilisi’s countless bakeries tempted the passerby with the irresistible aroma of their freshly baked delights.
My Georgian adventure wouldn’t have been complete without tasting the country’s iconic beverages. I delighted in the crisp, mineral-rich taste of Borjomi (water from the glacial mountain springs in the Borjomi region of central Georgia) and the zesty, citrusy flair of Zandukeli (authentic Georgian lemonade).
From courtyard cafés to rooftop restaurants, Tbilisi’s alfresco dining culture allowed me to relish the food alongside memorable views of the city.
Georgia and wine share an unseparable bond. This love affair goes back 8000 years, making Georgia the oldest wine-producing country in the world.
At Salobie Bia, a highly rated restaurant someone had recommended, I savoured the iconic khachapuri imeruli, a traditional Georgian cheese bread originating from the Imereti region.
I knew I was in for a treat the moment the golden-brown bread arrived, filled with melted Sulguni cheese. Each cheesy bite made me crave for more. The restaurant’s cozy ambience was enhanced by the artistic paintings by modern Georgian artists adorning its walls.
Georgians have a strong sense of national pride, as evidenced by the ubiquitous display of flags in homes, restaurants, and public spaces.
One of the best things about the city is that you can find sparkling water fountains every step of the way; a blessing to weary summertime travellers like me .
For centuries, Georgia has been at the crossroads of civilizations and soon became a melting pot of cultures. Throughout my journey, I met Armenian, Turkish, Azeri, and Russian folks who made the country their home.
This diversity is reflected in their culinary landscape too. There’s a wide range of restaurants in Tbilisi. One such discovery was an Iranian restaurant, run by a hospitable family of four. My Iranian dinner featured Baghali Polo (Persian dill rice made with fava beans) and Kabab koobideh (kofta kebab made from ground lamb). The saffron-rich taste of the rice contrasted with the smoky flavours of the kebabs, making for a delicious fusion.
Tbilisi is a dessert lover’s delight. I indulged in the sweet, crispy goodness of chimney cake at Lumiere’s. With its cylindrical shape and irresistible aroma, this treat was simply perfect.
Another place I tried was the aptly named Ice Crime. Their cheesecake ice cream is so addictive, selling it should be a crime.
Nighttime in Tbilisi is an immersive experience, with the city buzzing with activity. It’s the perfect time to enjoy live music, try the local cuisine, or simply soak up the lively atmosphere that defines this capital.
While walking through an underground tunnel, I stumbled upon a talented musician playing a soulful tune on the piano.
What struck me most was that he wasn’t performing for a crowd; he was just doing it for the love of music. When I expressed my admiration after he finished, he revealed that the piece was his own original composition.
Visiting Tbilisi was a dream come true for me. Every single day I spent in the city was something worth cherishing. The city will continue to hold a special place in my heart.
