The moment I planned a trip to Georgia, I just knew Vardzia had to be at the very top of my bucket list. Vardzia is a cave city near Akhaltsikhe in southern Georgia, dating back to the 12th century.
While in Kutaisi, I thought of joining a guided group tour to Vardzia. But guess what? Life had a different itinerary. When I rang up the tour operator, they informed that all seats for the next day were taken. No worries, I thought. I’ll just wing it and embark on a solo day trip instead.
First things first, I reached the Kutaisi Central Bus Station in the morning and hopped on a marshrutka (those share taxis you see around former Soviet republics) heading to the historic city of Akhaltsikhe. An audiobook kept me company along the course of the three-hour journey.
Arriving at the Akhaltsikhe bus station was thrilling. My eyes landed on the breathtaking exterior of the Akhaltsikhe Castle, which was on top of a hill overlooking the town.This magnificent fortress, also called the Rabati Castle, dates back to the ninth century, showcasing the rich history of the region.
Fun fact: "Akhaltsikhe" translates to "new fortress" in Georgian.
It was justly a ten-minute walk to the castle from the bus station. The magnificent castle offered a glimpse into the imperial era, replete with a heritage Orthodox church, a gilded mosque, a citadel, a museum, a hammam, manicured garden beds, fountains, the list goes on.
The Georgian flag fluttered majestically on top of the ancient castle, symbolizing the rich history and resilience of the nation. From its vantage point high above the city, the flag stood as a beacon of hope and unity.
After spending almost an hour in the castle, I spotted the spire of a nearby church on my way out and decided to visit.
The Rabati St. Marine church, a magnificent hidden gem, stands as a testament to the rich history of the 13th century. This sacred place, steeped in centuries of tradition and spirituality, exudes a captivating divine aura that envelops all who enter it.
Once I stepped inside, a friendly old Orthodox nun showed me around. I was a solitary visitor and it seemed like the church doesn't receive too many visitors outside of liturgical times.
The artistic wall paintings reflected the skilled craftsmanship of the artists of that era.
On my way out, I saw the priest getting into his car, so I asked him for a ride to the bus station, and he was happy to help out.
While driving, the priest wanted to know my name and if I was a tourist. He then reached over to the backseat and generously handed me two loaves of freshly baked monastery bread. I told him that just one would do, but he insisted I take both.
An old Georgian proverb goes, “Every guest is a gift from God.” True to those words, every Georgian I met in my journey was incredibly kind and welcoming.
I was back at the bus station in no time. It was quite surprising to see a portrait of dictator Joseph Stalin (who is ethnically Georgian) at a store there. Although over three decades have passed since the fall of the Soviet Union, the nostalgia is still very much alive.
When I asked the lady at the ticket counter about the last marshrutka to Vardzia, she told me it was leaving in an hour. She further cautioned that if I took the marshrutka to the caves, I wouldn't be able to make it back to Akhaltsikhe on the same day and would have to stay overnight instead.
Since I planned for a day trip to Vardzia and couldn't change my plans, I opted to take a taxi instead.
The driver was a kind-hearted middle-aged Armenian man who spoke mainly in Russian with a smattering of English. An interesting fact is that Akhaltsikhe has an Armenian population of almost 30%, since it’s located on the Georgia-Armenia border.
Although I’ve interacted with a few Armenians on social media previously, he was the first Armenian I met in flesh and blood. He even shared some delicious cherries from the Armenian highlands.
During the one and a half hour long journey, we traveled through secluded dangerous mountain roads with hairpin bends, right along the Turkey border.
Our conversation was stimulating, centered mostly around geopolitical issues. We spoke about the Armenian Genocide, the assassination of Talaat Pasha by Soghomon Tehlirian, modern-day Caucasus politics, the Nagorno-Karabakh War, and a bunch of other things.
Finally, we reached the heritage city of Vardzia. As I stood at the entrance, the ancient stone walls towering above, I couldn't help but feel a sense of awe and wonder.
I got myself a ticket, and even though I could've taken a minibus up the mountain, I chose to hike instead.
Vardzia was built by Queen Tamar during the Golden Age of Georgia. Did you know that even though Tamar was the first female to reign over Georgia, she was given the title of King?
Situated at an elevation of almost 4265 feet above sea level, the monastery site had 6000 caves spread across 19 levels while housing over 50,000 monks in its heyday. Unfortunately, most of the caves were destroyed during an eventual earthquake.
Today, about 500 caves remain and five monks are keeping the tradition alive by ringing the church bell every morning up on that mountain.
On my way up, I bumped into Victor, an American living in Germany. Turns out, he's into cross-country biking and even rode his hybrid bike to Vardzia. How cool is that?
The city, carved into the cliffs of the Erusheti Mountain, transported us to a bygone era. The walls whispered stories of monks who sought solace within these sacred walls and called this place home, their prayers echoing through the centuries.
Walking through the narrow passageways and climbing the steep staircases, we marveled at the meticulously carved caves.
Looking out over the valley below, the view was breathtaking. It was easy to imagine how this hidden city provided a sense of security and peace to its inhabitants, nestled away from the outside world.
As we explored further, we discovered hidden chambers and secret tunnels, each unveiling a new mystery and adding to the mystique of Vardzia. It truly felt like experiencing a glimpse of a world long gone but still preserved in the stones of this remarkable heritage city.
To be honest, it was a challenge navigating from one cave after another. Anyone who’s six-feet tall like me will have a hard time maneuvering through the labyrinthine caves. Perhaps the monks of those times were short or were walking hunched over.
At the heart of the Vardzia cave complex lies the Church of the Dormition, also commonly referred to as the Church of the Assumption of Mary. Constructed in the 1180s, the church was the spiritual center of the Vardzia cave city.
The church is characterized by its intricate frescoes, stunning architecture, and serene atmosphere, which together create a sense of awe and reverence for those who enter its hallowed walls.
The fresco-secco wall paintings were truly a sight to behold, encapsulating centuries of history and religious significance within their vibrant artworks.
As you stand before these ancient artworks, you tend to feel a sense of awe at the skill and dedication of the artists who created them. Each brushstroke seems to speak of devotion and faith, transporting you back in time to a period when art was not just a form of expression but a way to connect with the divine.
The scent of holy incense lingered in the air, drawing us closer.
Next to the church was a freshwater spring from which the monks once drank. I took a glass and had a drink. The water was pristine, reflecting the untouched beauty of nature.
The temperature kept dropping as we ventured deeper into the caves, a welcome change from the scorching heat of Akhaltsikhe.
Exploring Vardzia on my own gave me the freedom to wander around at my own pace. In hindsight, I was glad I didn't go on a guided group tour with tight schedules.
I ended up spending nearly two hours checking out the caves, from the chapels to the wine cellars and the tunnels. Going downhill was a breeze compared to the uphill trek, as anticipated.
Vardzia was truly an unforgettable, once-in-a-lifetime experience I will cherish. Beyond sightseeing, it’s a transformative journey through time, where the echoes of the past resonate with the present.